Tag Archives: surfing

Isiqalo

Isiqalo‘s Waves for Change is dedicated to educating and training youth in South Africa using surfing as a model for life. One of the primary goals is to encourage HIV awareness and testing.

I contacted the director, Tim, about volunteering while in Cape Town. Slightly self-conscious about the “voluntourism” thing, I still thought it seemed like an opportunity to learn and possibly contribute to a place I was visiting. I imagined myself going for a surf with a bunch of frothing groms and pushing them into waves but the timing didn’t work out for that. Instead, I met up with the crew for lessons in ding repair.

The man doing the repairs and teaching said that he had only surfed 4 or 5 times. He was too busy working to go out surfing and when he had his one day off a week, he was usually too tired.

Being self sufficient as well as learning a potential job skill were the themes of the day. While the resin cured we conversed about surfing, the program and the problems these kids are already faced with at such an early age.

During the ride back to Masiphumelele, a boy about 12 or 13 years old told me about kids he knew that were addicted to the drug tic. It’s hard to imagine how drugs could get any more toxic but tic was described to me as dirty meth. He couldn’t even have these friends in his house because they would steal from him the moment he took his eyes off of them.

As we rode through the township, I tried to take in as much as possible. We were joined by a family in need of a ride. They were in their Sunday best and traveling out of town for a funeral. Looking out of the window, a dead chicken had fallen by the side of the street. A woman stood a few feet behind, knife in hand. Two other chickens walked around calmly, oblivious. Kids approached the van, chatting and asking for sodas. We dropped one or some of the boys off at a home for kids with very green grass, said our goodbyes and continued on to the train station where I departed.

Recently, for World Aids Day, Waves for Change was visited by Desmond Tutu where the kids demonstrated the lessons and exercises they have learned through the program.

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Log town, excellent

Surfing with your friends is just plain fun by golly.

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South Africa Analog

Footage of South Africa shot on Ektachrome Super 8. Animals, surfing, and scenery.

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Home and Away

I had to save up all year to go on this trip to South Africa and it was made possible by many friends. Glad to go and glad to be home.

There should be many photos. I took a Pentax K1000 with 50 mm lens, a Eumig super 8 camera, and a grumpy old point and shoot digital camera. I’m doing some surf related entries over at the Surf Station.

Here is the first one:

1st days in the bay

This looks like a perfect longboard wave but there are about 2 inches of water at the bottom covering rock.

July 29, 2011

My introduction to the Indian ocean is small and cold.

I’m staying with friends of a friend, Tanja and Deon, who live across the street from Supertubes. Deon and the dogs get up before the sunrise. We have coffee and a surf check. He shows me where the gullies for entries and exits at Supers are. Knowing these places, he says, are no guarantees that you will get in or out safely. He’s seen the pros blow it many times and having lived there over 15 years, he warns that even he still occasionally gets his timing wrong.

The waves are tiny and breaking right on the rocks. I’m not in a rush to get out there. I go to yoga with Tanja and spend the afternoon walking the length of the bay, studying its angles and rock formations.

Portra 400 VC

 

Portra 400 VC

 

When Deon gets home from work he insists we get in the ocean. We take out some dusty longboards to Point. The longboard I borrow is a thruster and I must wear a leash. I can’t help but attempt a few nose rides and the thruster set up faithfully spins out every time. I absolutely love it. People expect to go to Jbay and surf overhead grinders and here I am goofing around in thigh high peelers. It’s almost blasphemy. After a week in South Africa, I’m thankful to be in the ocean and cruising down some fun little lines…away from the hectic aspects of Cape Town and trading out the sounds of honking horns for a multitude of bird calls.

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What I love about surfing is…

…that you can be in control and magnificent in one moment and a complete goofball a split second later…all on the same wave.

Nikonos and Portra VC 400

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Trains across the sea

A few tee-niny peelers from Shindokneesia

It took me too long to fix the water housing. The project involved me acknowledging that after so much hassle with housings, this one, the one that traveled so far and was supposed to work, wasn’t working either. Fortunately, I was able to identify exactly where it leaked and after some light research, walked thoroughly confused into the hardware store. Sidenote: I love hardware stores…they are so practical. Anyway, this is boring but some types of adhesives are good for metal, not so good for plastics…they can make the plastics brittle etc. Other types of adhesives are not really rated for below the water level sealing. So I just went with Amazing Goop. A mysterious substance that killed a few of my braincells and solved my aquatic camera problems for the time being.

We had some spectacularly clear waters the day prior to this one, and some beautiful waves. I was hoping for similar conditions on this day but of course it was half as big and twice as murky. But still, it was good fun and it was good to practice filming in the water again.

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Thinly veiled trivial pursuits

“People sure do get good at funny things.”

The old fisherman’s statement made me realize that I’d spent much of my life learning a completely worthless set of skills.

I loved soccer. I would spend hours alone in the yard, juggling a ball around and trying out tricks. This is exactly what I was doing when the fisherman made this observation…foolishly running about the yard, thinking I was pretty awesome…and with an effortless stroke, he knocked the wind out of my egotistical teenage sails.

He told me what he’d seen on television the night before: stupid human tricks of sorts…spinning plates on sticks or juggling kittens. Something. He kept going on about moronic people that have gotten so good at meaningless things. It seemed a little rude but I couldn’t debate it. I nodded my head quietly while having a miniature identity crisis. My skills centered around kicking inflated spheres and running for inhumane periods of time. This man fed people for a living. He had been going out to sea, exposed to the elements while doing manual labor, for decades.

I just listened and digested as the conversation eventually wound down. I went inside for the evening, one part bewildered, one part deflated.

Over the years, this encounter transformed from an awkward moment into a lesson in not taking absurd things seriously.
You can be pretty good or even the best at anything in the world and may even receive much praise for it. And yet somebody, somewhere doesn’t care and thinks you are ridiculous. And you are.

That shouldn’t stop you.

You are not the doer of any action here, O Rama, so why do you assume doership? When one alone exists, who does what and how? Do not become inactive, either, for what is gained by doing nothing? What has to be done has to be done. Therefore rest in the self. Even while doing all the actions natural to you if you are unattached to those actions you are truly the non-doer; if you are doing nothing and are attached to that non-doership (then you are doing nothing) you become the doer! When all this world is like the juggler’s trick, what is to be given up and what is to be sought?

Vasistha

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Everything in its right place

The image that happens before the first official photo. 16th Street.

 

Nicky High Five

 

These were not shot with an SLR so compositions came out slightly different than they were intended too. More of this later.

 

Water drops, dropping in..a wonderful day in the neighborhood.

 

Another composition mishap. I read this as I'm Glide Fad. Which is essentially longboarding. Chris loaned me this board for a few months while mine was getting shaped. He is a true steward of the logging community. If you fall from this board, it pops up into the air and tells you to Trim, Glide, Fade and then catches the next wave in without you. You get to have a long hard think on these concepts while swimming for shore. We had many good rides and wipeouts together. Thanks Chris!

 

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Spheres of influence

This is another example of the disparity between the viewfinder and the lens on the Nikonos.

This board has a bit of a funny story. It was shaped by Gary McNeil of Formula Energy Surfboards who I had the pleasure of meeting last year in Australia. It is absolutely one of my favorites. Originally, it was made for someone else.

Where I work, we get lots of used boards from the Channel Island team riders. Originally, this was an Alien model made for Dane Reynolds. I don’t know if he ever had a chance to ride it. It was one among a batch that came with black spray paint all over them.

Apparently, one of his friends had an alcohol soaked art session one evening and used his quiver as a canvas. Two of the sprayed Formula Energy boards came in the shop and my friend Tom and I took on the task of cleaning them up and making them like new. Tom took the Bollywood and I got the Alien with the silver rails. In the process of cleaning off the black mess, I accidentally stripped some of the silver off the rails. I proceeded to then give it my own black mess — a new black rail spray and a spasmodic india ink session. Ode to an oil spill?

Read More »

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Polka dotted pirate ship

Richard Prause called me very early to go surf and try out the new longboard he shaped. We surfed the washout in Folly beach. It was tiny, brown and offshore…a pretty good day to get to know the log.

Richard’s shapes, Grasshopper Surfboards, are excellent partners in fun times and the oceanic dance. Above is the classic density (good and heavy) longboard I got to take home with me…9 feet and three inches of brilliant craftsmanship and plenty of dreamy glides in the future.

I had a dream last night I was a regular foot. I’m just writing this here so I don’t forget.

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