On the plane home, I overheard a woman explaining the horizon to her son.
“See, the horizon is where the sea meets the sky.”
We talked many times about climbing up to the lighthouse and it became a joke because we never seemed to get around to it. Multiple mornings included this dialogue:
“What do you want to do today?”
“We should climb the lighthouse.”
There were so many wonderful things going on that the daylight simply flew by. On this day, we walked the walk. It was perfect, crystal clear skies, fresh air, small seas and a southern breeze.
Like so many days before, we took a break for lunch at Santos. Ode to maharini pie, ginger nectar and sticky rice pudding. After the satisfying sustenance, we returned to the sea for a bit of surfing and underwater viewing with our slick new masks. There were tiny little peelers and dolphins and fish and fun. The evening was a teepee filled with friends, musical moving images courtesy of the Doors and late night letter writing.
My final full day in Australia and the predawn internal alarm. I get ready by candle light and hop on the motor bike
down the back road to watch the breaching sun.
There is no one around but the sea gulls, fish and a wild tribe of nomadic thoughts. As the light goes from pink to orange to vanilla, I try to remember all there is to be thankful for. There is no better environment for the reminding.
The ocean has been a pretty big part of this trip. We wrapped up filming for 31 days in March although there is still plenty of editing to be done. Since then, it has been nice to go down to the ocean and just enjoy without lugging loads of equipment.
The variety of breaks and beaches is incredible on this little stretch of the world. We’ve surfed some of the most crowded waves and some of the emptiest just a few miles from each other. Simply go around a bend or headland and the size becomes quartered and the wind favorable.
Lauren and I got assigned some interesting nicknames upon arrival. Resistance was futile.
Australian alter-egos: La La and Ray Ray
Weird and delicious.
One fish, two fish, red fish, brown fish.
Vegan Fishing (photo by Lauren)
Much of the time, we surfed the Pass. It’s usually a knee high, crowded, right pointbreak. Perfect for logging and regularfoots and those comfortable with the masses. It took me about a month to get over being a goofyfoot in the land of rights and my anxiety with big boards and lots of humans. Lately, it’s been far less crowded and I’m learning to love it. The sunsets there are unrivaled.
Lauren and I did some planting one day on the farm. We looked pretty tough with our shovels and machetes and wheelbarrow. Funny how life sometimes requires a little death. Apologies to the grasses we disturbed in order to make holes for trees. But how incredible that humans can intentionally (and hopefully positively) shape an environment. I don’t know who we are to judge what plants should go where but here’s to hoping we made a good choice in placing some native trees in former cattle fields (which before that were forests).